Paolo Roversi’s ethereal portraits have long felt like whispers from another era, and this fall the legendary Italian photographer finally brought that quiet magic stateside in full force. His solo show “Along the Way” at Pace Gallery turned a Chelsea space into a dreamlike sanctuary during New York Fashion Week, giving American audiences a rare chance to stand inches from images that blur the line between fashion and fine art.
The Exhibition That Stopped Time
“Along the Way” opened on September 12, 2025, and ran through October 25 at Pace’s 508 West 25th Street location, featuring more than thirty works spanning the early 1990s to 2024.
It marked Roversi’s first solo presentation with the gallery since 2019 and arrived just as the city buzzed with runway energy.
A Focused Yet Sprawling Look at 35 Years
The show zeroed in on Roversi’s deep collaborations with models, designers, and fellow artists while offering an intimate career overview.
Viewers wandered through portraits that felt both intimate and monumental.
Who Exactly Is Paolo Roversi?
Born in Ravenna, Italy, on September 25, 1947, Roversi discovered photography during a 1964 family trip to Spain and promptly built a darkroom in his parents’ basement.
That teenage spark never faded.
From Photojournalism to Parisian Studios
In 1970 he shot his first professional assignment for the Associated Press—covering Ezra Pound’s funeral in Venice—before moving to Paris in 1973 at the invitation of ELLE’s art director Peter Knapp.
There he assisted British photographer Lawrence Sackmann, learning the discipline that still defines his practice.
The Studio Luce Philosophy
Roversi has worked almost exclusively from his Paris studio, Studio Luce, for decades, treating it as a sacred space where “chance, the dream, the imaginary” rule.
No location shoots, no distractions—just light, subject, and quiet conversation.
Why He Rarely Leaves the Studio
He once joked that Guy Bourdin warned him New York was “the cemetery of photography,” yet the real reason is simpler: everything he needs lives inside those familiar walls.
The controlled environment lets him chase the exact mood he feels in his bones.
Signature Techniques That Feel Like Painting
Roversi shoots primarily with a Deardorff 8×10 camera loaded with Polaroid film, often using long exposures lasting several seconds or even up to thirty.
He mixes HMI lights, window light, and a handheld Mag-Lite flashlight—no light meter, just intuition.
The Magic of Imperfection
That deliberate slowness creates the soft blur and painterly glow fans adore, while the instant Polaroid lets him see results right away and tweak on the spot.
It’s old-school alchemy in a digital world, and it still feels revolutionary.
Iconic Models Who Became Muses
Kate Moss, Stella Tennant, Guinevere van Seenus, Natalia Vodianova, Kirsten Owen—these women didn’t just pose; they co-created with Roversi.
Each portrait feels like a private confession captured on film.
Guinevere van Seenus on the Process
The model once said Roversi “creates the space for the person to emerge,” turning every sitting into something deeper than a fashion shot.
That trust shines through in every frame.
Designers Who Inspired His Best Work
From Comme des Garçons and John Galliano to Christian Dior and Maison Margiela, Roversi has interpreted the most poetic collections of our time.
He sees himself as the musician playing the designer’s melody.
A Special Collaboration with Sheila Hicks
The show even included sculptural pieces made with fiber artist Sheila Hicks, proving Roversi’s vision extends beyond the lens.
Two small mixed-media works sat quietly among the photographs like hidden treasures.
Must-See Works From the Retrospective
Standouts included the 1993 carbon print of Kate Moss in New York, Audrey for Dior (2016), and Guinevere for “Blood & Roses” (2017).
A still life of Robert Frank’s coffee pot added an unexpected personal touch.
Emotional Highlights That Lingered
Visitors lingered longest in front of Guinevere’s celestial portrait and the spectral Margiela Artisanal pieces drenched in moonlight.
Each image invited you to slow down and breathe.
How Roversi’s Style Compares to Legends
| Photographer | Studio Focus | Light Approach | Emotional Tone | Signature Tool |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paolo Roversi | Yes | Long exposure + mixed | Dreamlike intimacy | 8×10 Polaroid |
| Irving Penn | Yes | Controlled daylight | Clean precision | Large format film |
| Richard Avedon | Yes | Stark white background | Raw confrontation | 8×10 camera |
| Sarah Moon | Varied | Soft diffusion | Fairytale romance | Medium format |
Roversi stands apart by embracing imperfection as poetry.
Pros and Cons of His Timeless Aesthetic
- Pros: Images never date; incredible emotional depth; rewards slow looking; bridges commercial and fine art seamlessly.
- Cons: Slow process limits volume; requires patient models and clients; hard to replicate without his exact setup.
- Bonus: The Polaroid immediacy keeps creativity alive in the moment.
His approach trades speed for soul every single time.
Critical Reception and Visitor Buzz
Critics called the show a “vengeance of beauty” against a noisy world, praising how the works nourished the viewer’s interior life.
One reviewer left feeling the portraits had “souls frozen in layers of self-respect.”
Personal Stories From the Opening
Attendees swapped tales of first discovering Roversi in vintage Vogue Italia issues, many admitting the large prints hit harder than any screen image ever could.
The energy in the room felt reverent, almost hushed.
Why This Show Matters for American Audiences
Roversi has always been more celebrated in Europe and Asia, yet New York finally got the full immersive experience.
The timing during Fashion Week felt poetic—fashion’s capital meeting one of its quietest masters.
A Gentle Push for Wider Recognition
The photographer himself hoped the exhibition would help him “be a little more known in America,” delivering that wish with quiet grace.
Mission accomplished.
Beyond the Gallery: Books and Collections
Pick up recent titles like Paolo Roversi: Palais Galliera (2024) or Lettres sur la lumière for deeper dives.
His prints live in the MoMA, Getty, and National Portrait Gallery collections worldwide.
Where to Experience More Online
Pace Gallery’s site and his Instagram (@roversi) offer beautiful installation views and studio playlists that capture the mood perfectly.
Start there and let yourself drift.
People Also Ask
What is Paolo Roversi known for?
Dreamlike fashion portraits created with large-format Polaroid and long exposures that feel more like paintings than photos.
How does Paolo Roversi achieve his soft focus?
By using extended shutter speeds, mixed lighting sources, and Polaroid film’s unique emulsion qualities—no Photoshop required.
When was the Pace Gallery retrospective?
September 12 to October 25, 2025—already a landmark moment for fans.
Where is Paolo Roversi from?
Ravenna, Italy, though he has called Paris home since the 1970s.
Has Paolo Roversi photographed celebrities?
Rarely; he prefers models who arrive without a pre-set persona, letting real connection unfold.
FAQ
What makes the “Along the Way” exhibition unique?
It gathers over three decades of intimate collaborations in one space, including never-before-seen mixed-media pieces with Sheila Hicks.
Can I still visit the show?
Unfortunately it closed in October 2025, but Pace often tours or publishes catalogs—check their site for future opportunities.
What camera does Paolo Roversi use?
His beloved Deardorff 8×10 view camera paired with Polaroid Type 59 or 809 film for that unmistakable glow.
Is his work suitable for beginners to collect?
Absolutely—limited-edition prints and books make accessible entry points into one of photography’s most poetic voices.
How can I learn his lighting style?
Study long-exposure techniques with continuous lights and experiment in a controlled studio; patience is the real secret.
Roversi’s New York moment reminded us all that true magic in photography doesn’t shout—it lingers, softly, long after you’ve left the room. If you missed the show, the images still wait patiently in books and memories, ready to pull you into their gentle fog whenever you need a moment of quiet beauty. In a fast world, that kind of stillness feels like the rarest gift.